The
three windshield pieces I had to work with when I was doing restorations
of three original AMT '60 Ford convertibles were all damaged.
(Click
here for the full article.) |
No. 1 had some
serious glue damage in three places. |
No.
2 had glue damage, scratches and old paint in both vent window
areas. |
No.
3 also had scratches and a deep pitted area where a drop of glue
had been dropped on the surface and then wiped away. |
You'll
need a variety of tools for this project, including some sanding
sticks. This is a set I got from Micro Mark. (Click
here for details.) |
I
also used Flex-i-file Flex Pads in various grits, from medium
to extra fine, plus their very handy polishing stick. |
You can also
find sanding sticks in various grits in the cosmetics section
of most department stores. These are a bit wider than the tools
mentioned above, and are handy for covering broader areas.
|
Assorted fine
grit sanding sheets are also handy for working with curved areas.
|
For the final
finishing and polishing, you can't so better than the Novus polishing
system; in order of use: No. 3 Heavy Scratch Remover, No. 2 Fine
Scratch Remover, and No. 1 Plastic Clean & Shine. |
The severity
of the damage will determine the coarseness of the grit you should
start with. A general rule is to use the finest grit you can use
and still get the job done. In the case of these particular windshields,
because of the heavy glue damage I started with a medium grit
stick. If you're tackling light scratches you may find that you
can skip all the way down to using just the Novus products.
|
Here you can
see some of the preliminary sanding on No. 1. In the case of heavy
glue damage, there'll be a white spot in the damaged area. You'll
need to continue to carefully sand until the white area disappears.
|
Here you see
the preliminary sanding finished on all three pieces. The initial
sanding will cause a lot of scuffing and scarring of the clear
plastic. Don't worry about this; we'll clear things up in later
steps. |