| TERM |
DEFINITION |
| 1:1
(one-to-one) |
One-to-one
means the full, life-sized vehicle. |
| 1/25th |
Refers to
the scale or relative size of a model. A 1/25th
scale model car is 1/25th the size of the 1:1
vehicle. The use of 1/25th scale dates back to the very earliest days
of model cars when car manufacturers commissioned models of their
vehicles to be given away in dealerships as promotional
items. 1/25th is often called an "engineering" scale
and can be a little difficult to work with (as opposed to 1/24th scale
where 1/2 inch equals 1 foot). |
| acrylic |
Acrylic is
one type of enamel. Acrylic enamel is water
based; which means that water is used both for clean-up and thinning. |
| aftermarket |
In recent
years many model car enthusiasts have started their own small businesses
supplying the hobby with detailing components, resin bodies and, in
some cases, full resin kits. These small businesses are usually referred
to within the hobby as aftermarket sources and/or businesses. |
| base
coat |
This is a
term that refers to an initial coat of paint that comes after
the primer. It is most often associated with
"candy" colors. The classic "candy" paint job
is done by first applying a base coat of, for example, a metallic
gold. This is then covered with semi-transparent color
coats, in many instances layer after layer, until the desired
effect is achieved. |
| bellypan |
A bellypan
is a smooth enclosure used on the underside of a vehicle to help improve
aerodynamics and reduce air resistance or drag. They are usually found
on race cars. |
| bleed-through |
Bleed-through
occurs when an underlying color shows through a subsequent layer of
paint. It happens most commonly when the model is made of a strong
color such as red or yellow and is painted without use of primer.
It can also occur when the first layer of paint has not cured sufficiently
prior to the application of another coat. |
| box
stock |
A box stock
model is one that is built exclusively from parts that are included
in the kit. From the perspective of contest rules, no aftermarket
items may be used on a model that is considered box stock. |
| chrome
foil |
See foil. |
| coaster |
See friction. |
| color
coat |
The color
coat is the layer of paint that actually provides the finished color
desired in a paint job. Several color coats may be applied, especially
with candy paint where multiple layers deepen the color. The color
coat(s) of paint are applied by spraying (with spray can or airbrush)
closer to the model than the mist coat, but
not as close as the final wet coat(s). A very
general rule is to apply mist coat(s) at a distance
of 12 to 18 inches away from the model, the color coat(s) from 10
to 14 inches away, and the final wet coats about 6 to 8 inches away. |
| craze,
crazing |
Crazing is
the slight melting of the surface of a plastic model, giving it a
"wrinkled" rather than smooth appearance. It happens most
often when lacquer paint is used on a plastic
model without first applying a coat of primer. |
| curbside |
A curbside
model is one that does not include some detail, such as an opening
hood with engine. In most cases curbside models do have some basic
chassis detailing. |
| cure,
curing |
This refers
to the amount of time for paints, adhesives, etc., to fully dry. The
process usually involves the gradual evaporation of solvents and other
components of the materials being used. It is important to read and
follow manufacturers' directions and allow the recommended curing
time to pass before proceeding with a modeling project. Also see gas
out. |
| detailing |
Detailing
is one of the most important steps in building an authentic looking
model. Each model builder must define the level of detailing he or
she wants to strive for. Some may be satisfied with adding detail
to a kit by patiently painting all the various components, trim, interior
components, etc., to achieve the desired level of realism. Other builders
may go several extra steps, adding aftermarket
detail items like photo-etched grilles, more
realistic wheels, etc. There are some builders who go all-out, adding
wiring to the engine compartment, brake and fuel lines, etc. The sky
is the limit when it comes to detailing, and the only restriction
is the individual builder's level of expertise. |
| enamel |
Enamel is one of several
types of paint used on models. It is most commonly found in small
bottles and spray (rattle) cans. Most enamels
are solvent-based, but acrylic enamels are
water-based. Model builders must be aware of the types of paint they
use on models, because different types of paint may not be compatible
with plastic and/or each other. The rule is that enamel may be used
over lacquer, but lacquer cannot be used over enamel, since it will
usually damage the underlying layer of enamel. |
| feathering |
Feathering is a sanding
technique that involves sanding an area of paint, body filler,
etc. so that the transition between the area being sanded and the
underlying area is smooth and undetectable. |
| filler |
Filler is a material used
to fill small holes and gaps. A number of different types of fillers
are available to the modeler. See our Resources
section for more information. |
| flash |
Flash is excess plastic
(or other material) found on most models as a result of from the manufacturing
process. It occurs most commonly in open areas such as window openings,
wheel wells, and around smaller parts. A general rule of thumb is
that less flash means a higher quality model. However, even high quality
kits can have some flash, particularly when the molds have been used
for a long period of time. |
| flat |
In painting, flat refers
to a final finish that has no shine. Flat finishes are usually desirable
for most components of a model other than the body panels. At times,
however, a flat finish may also be desirable on one or more body panels,
depending on the specific model. This kind of finish is achieved either
by using flat paints, or by adding a flat or dull top
coat. |
| foil |
Foil is used to simulate
chrome trim and comes in sheets. It is very thin and self-adhesive.
Several brand names are available. See our Resources
section for tips on how to apply chrome foil. |
| friction |
Friction models are very
similar to promotional models, except that
they have a small motor that allows them to be rolled along for short
distances under their own power. Friction models are also sometimes
called coasters. |
| full
detail |
A full
detail model refers to one that includes engine, chassis and interior
components, as opposed to older friction/promotional
models, curbside models, and slammers.
See detailing. |
| gas
out |
When paint is applied
to a model it requires a sufficient amount of drying or curing time.
This is necessary, in part, to allow enough time for gases, which
are produced as part of the process, to escape and for the paint to
fully harden. This is known as allowing the paint to "gas out"
and is essential before handling the model extensively. Allowing for
"gas out" is critical before using any kind of
polishing technique. Also see curing. |
| gloss |
Gloss is the property
of the final finish on a model that makes it shiny. A high gloss finish
is accomplished both by application of gloss top
coats and/or polishing and waxing. |
| grokking |
See kit
contemplation |
| kit
contemplation |
This is a recommended
first step. Before starting any project it's a good idea to spend
some time looking at the model and its various components. Get a "feel"
for how the various parts go together and what the building options
are, study the instructions carefully, and develop a plan for how
to proceed. Many veteran modelers refer to this as "grokking"
the kit; the term comes from the Robert Heinlein novel Stranger in
a Strange Land. (Highly recommended reading for any science fiction
fans!) |
| lacquer |
Lacquer
is one of several types of paint used on models. It is usually found
in spray (rattle) cans, or in bottles intended
for use with an airbrush. Model builders must be aware of the types
of paint they use on models, because different types of paint may
not be compatible with plastic and/or each other. Lacquer must be
used with caution, because if used directly on most plastics (without
an undercoat of primer) it will usually craze
the plastic. Lacquer also cannot be used over enamel, since it will
usually damage the underlying layer of enamel. |
| locating
pin |
Locating pins are small
protrusions on the underside of various kit components that help align
two parts. One part has the locating pin and the other has a hold
into which the pin fits. |
| mint |
Mint refers to the condition
of a particular model or kit. Although the term is subject to some
degree of interpretation, to qualify as mint the kit/model must
be in the exact condition as when it left the factory, including,
in most cases, the original, unopened packaging. |
| mist
coat |
A mist coat of paint is
one that is initially applied to a model using the desired color (after
the primer, if used). The mist coat provides
a very thin layer of paint that will help subsequent color
coat layers adhere better. A mist coat is applied by very lightly
"dusting" the model. A very general rule
is to apply a single mist coat about 12 to 18 inches away from the
model. The idea is to just provide a light dusting of paint. |
| mold
release |
Mold release is a substance
that is applied to the inner surfaces of a mold to aid in ejecting
the model from the mold. It is present on most models. For this reason
it is recommended that plastic models be washed with a mild dishwashing
detergent before painting and/or assembly. Resin models should be
soaked in whitewall tire bleach for 24 hours to eliminate the mold
release. |
| overcoat |
See top
coat. |
| original
issue |
Original issue refers
to the first version of a model, as opposed to a reissue.
Original issues are almost always more valuable. |
| paint,
stripping |
Whether
you're restoring an older model or fixing a mistake, every now and
then it's necessary to strip paint from a model. This is not difficult,
but requires preparation, primarily in identifying what to use that
will remove the paint without damaging the model. Regular paint
stripping liquids will usually cause severe damage and should not
be used. Castrol Super Clean® and Easy Off Oven Cleaner®
are two products that are widly used for stripping paint. Manufacturer's
cautions should be followed when using these products, and as is
always the case, testing should be done on a scrap piece before
application on a valuable model. |
| parts
tree(s) |
See sprue. |
| pearl |
One of several top coats
available, pearl top coat gives an iridescent
look to a paint job. |
| photo
etched |
Photo etched parts are
usually made by aftermarket companies, although some major manufacturers
include photo etched parts in some of their kits. Photo etched parts
offer a superior level of detail, particularly in areas where very
thin and/or small details are needed. Examples include grilles, emblems,
interior details, etc. |
| primer |
Primer is the undercoating
most modelers use prior to painting with their color of choice. Primer
helps smooth out minor imperfections and scratches and also seals
the surface of the model so that paints, such as lacquer,
won't damage it. Primer also helps the finish coats of paint adhere
more firmly. When a model is made with a colored plastic, especially
red or yellow, primer is essential to prevent bleed-through. |
| promotional |
Promotional models are
ones that are given away by manufacturers or dealers as an advertising
tool. In many instances the difference between a promotional model
and a friction model can only be spotted by
an expert. In other cases the promotional model does not differ from
the friction model. Some promotional models are very rare and, consequently,
quite valuable. |
| rattle
can |
This is a "slang"
term that refers to common spray cans of paint. The term comes from
the sound made when the can is shaken and the small steel ball inside
helps mix the can's contents prior to painting. |
| reissue |
A reissue is a version
of a model that is a newer, placed on the market some time after the
original model. Many times manufacturers will
reissue a kit if there seems to be enough demand. In many instances
kits have been reissued several times, occasionally with variations
in the actual tooling, but more commonly, exactly
like the original. Reissued kits are almost always less expensive
than originals. |
resin
cast
|
This refers to models
and/or parts that are cast from casting resin, which is usually
a two-part liquid compound. Resin cast items are most frequently
produced by aftermarket companies, and in the case of models, frequently
make available to the modeling community items that are not available
from the major manufacturers. |
| scale |
Scale refers to the size
of a model relative to its full-sized or 1:1
(one-to-one) counterpart. For example, a 1/25th scale model is 1/25th
the size of the full-sized vehicle. Some of the more popular scales
in the model car world are 1/8, 1/12, 1/18, 1/24, 1/25, 1/32, 1/43,
and 1/64. |
| slammer |
A slammer is a model that
is very basic, and does not include interior or chassis components.
In many instances, the window glass is blacked out. Many beginner
kits are slammers. |
| solvent |
Solvents
are substances that are used to thin and/or
clean up paint. Paints are frequently categorized according to the
solvent with which they are compatible, for example, most enamels
(except acrylic) use an oil-based solvent such
as mineral spirits, whereas lacquer thinner is the solvent for lacquer-based
paints. |
| sprue |
A sprue is the plastic
framework to which various parts of a model kit are attached. They
are sometimes called "trees" and can be used for any number
of things, from exhaust pipes to filling holes in bodies. See our
Resources section. |
| stock |
Stock usually refers to
a vehicle that has not been modified from factory specifications.
The exception to this is stock cars which are used for racing. A racing
stock car retains much of the appearance of a factory stock vehicle,
but they are heavily modified under the body. |
| stripping |
See paint,
stripping. |
| sub-assembly |
Individual components
such as chassis, interior, engine, etc. which are assembled individually
before being combined into the finished model are called sub-assemblies. |
| thinner |
Liquid used to thin paint
and also for clean-up. Thinners must be compatible with the type of
paint they are used with, i.e., enamel thinner for enamel;
lacquer thinner for lacquer. |
| tooling |
Tooling refers to the
actual mold(s) used to create a plastic model. Sometimes tooling may
be modified to correct errors in the original tooling or to add different
or extra parts when a kit is reissued. |
| top
coat |
The top coat
is the final layer of paint applied to a model. Top coats are usually
clear, and are available in either gloss or flat
finishes. However, there are also special top coats, for example,
pearl, which can give the model a different look. |
| transkit |
Transkits
are produced by many aftermarket companies. They are not complete
kits, but provide the builder with only the parts necessary to convert
an existing kit to a different version. |
| tree(s) |
See sprue. |
| wet
coat |
In painting,
a"wet" coat is the final layer of color applied. Although
it adds yet another layer of the chosen color, its primary purpose
is to add gloss to the paint job. (This, of course,
can also be achieved by using a clear gloss top
coat. However, most modelers prefer a glossy surface, even if
they plan to finish the paint job with a gloss top coat.) A very
general rule is to apply the final "wet" coats about
6 to 8 inches away from the model. |
